Up North : Palaui, Cagayan

Palaui is located in the Northern Province of Cagayan in the Philippines. It is accessible by a 30-minute boat ride from the Cagayan mainland. From Manila, one can go to Palaui Island by air and by bus. Ride a plane from Manila Airport to Tuguegarao City, and from Tuguegarao ride a bus to Santa Ana. From the San Vicente port in Santa Ana, one can charter a boat to the island. Total travel time (air, bus and boat) from Manila to Palaui Island is approximately 3 hours and 30 minutes.

Since I visited first Calliao Cave before heading to Palaui, it’s almost 12 hours travel from Manila by bus to Sta. Ana Cagayan.

I stayed at a transient house in Sta. Ana Cagayan owned by coast guard. At the early morning I take a boat from Sta. Ana to Palaui Island. Thanks God, the sea is calm to travel.

Commercial accommodations in Palaui Island are nonexistent; one can either bring a tent or stay in the Barangay Hall. An alternative would be staying in one of the hotels in the town of Santa Ana.

This Trail is in Honor to Late Leonardo

After arriving at Palaui Island I just fixed my tent and have breakfast and started to trail Cape Engano Lighthouse through Leonardo's trail. The trail is almost one and a half hour since it was raining and the trail is muddy.

Faro de Cabo Engano or now popularly known as Cape Engano is one of the 27 major lighthouses in the country, which until now, continues to play a major role in navigation, especially for ships traversing the Babuyan Channel in Northern Luzon and the Pacific Ocean. It is currently under the supervision of the Department of Transportation and Communications, through the Philippine Coast Guard’s lighthouse division. It is the first light station upon entering or the last when leaving Philippine waters heading for the Pacific Ocean. It played a crucial part in assisting trade and navigation between Spain and the Philippines. Later on the Spaniards realized its importance when trade grew between neighboring Formosa (Taiwan), Japan, as well as the Islands of Guam and further to the west coast of the United States and Australia. It continues to guide vessels heading toward northern Luzon’s most important port, Aparri.

From a distance, we caught a glimpse of the lighthouse perched on top of a hill with wild blue grass cascading all over its surroundings below. To our left were the Dos Hermanas islands, a rock formation and the last land mass on the Pacific side. Legend has it that the island had two sisters who, centuries ago bade goodbye to their husbands on a fishing expedition, only to be left waiting since then for their return.

After straggling 229 concrete stairway zigzagging the to the top, I finally arrived. So, this is the famed Cape Engano lighthouse overlooking the Ziwangag Cove to the north.

The U-shaped building formerly housed employees of the Philippine Navy and other officials in charge of the lighthouse. The lighthouse was completed on the 31st of December 1892.

It was likewise rehabilitated by the American forces, as it is the only visible house in Northeastern Luzon seen from an 8 nautical miles distance. The roof was gone on both sides of the building and the lighthouse was constructed at the center. Sadly, the lighthouse ceased to provide the necessary service to guide navigators in this part of the world.

Ruin of Lighthouse

During the Japanese occupation, the underground area at the foot of the lighthouse was used by the Japanese for water torture treatment as a form of punishment to Filipinos. During the American occupation and subsequent administration by the Philippine government, some of the rooms near the kitchen area eventually became the generator room and fuel bunker. Water was provided by collecting rainwater diverted and stored in a cistern located below the courtyard.

 “It was wonderful. I want to live in place like this.”

Little Valley for Animal Farming

Living there was the object of envy for many people of Santa Ana, simply because it was the only place in the area where residents had electricity. “Santa Ana was still then a dense jungle, so that when people came here, it was like they felt like they were just in the city, she said. Their rations of rice, beans, noodles, cooking oil and kerosene –arrived every month and was shared equally among the workers, regardless of rank. The workers also raised goats to augment their food needs. The forest and the sea were also abundant sources of food.

Old lighthouses when seen, gives the impression that it is like a woman who has lived her time. If only the walls could talk-there would be endless stories to tell.

Sad to say, the light station sits forlorn on the isolated island – like a woman abandoned by her lover. Vandals have taken this marker without any remorse to the history attached to it. At the time of my visit, the original lantern (and bronze cupola which houses it) was missing. A temporary solar-based tertiary lighting mechanism was installed in its place. The lighthouse continues to be destroyed by natural as well as by manmade elements. Old wooden beams that have remained are just memories of the structure that was built to withstand the test of time. The windows, doors and roof of the main pavilion, as well as the kitchens and storage rooms reminds me of how it would have been like with robbers forced entry into the underground way to pawnshop to cart necessary things.

However, there’s a lot to be done here. The building needs total rehabilitation or restoration to make the trip worthwhile. It is a historical landmark in the Northern Philippines and travel writers and local guides’ advice that the national and provincial government should move fast if only to lure tourists over the place.

The support structure, which undoubtedly has seen better times, is in need of a complete restoration. One wonders though, considering that the history of this light station was marred with numerous tragedies, if it is fitting that we restore it to its original state. It could be kept in its present state as a memorial for those who perished in constructing this structure.

The trek itself amidst a panoramic land and seascapes were already a big gain. As I bid the lighthouse goodbye, I promised to be back soon for another exhilarating experience to Palaui island. It is really a gateway to the Pacific and it shows!

Son plus de plaisir dans les Philippines en raison de Palaui !

Way Points

By plane:

Take a plane bound to Tuguegarao, just a walk from airport is highway where vans are passing leading to Sta.Ana, Cagayan

By bus:

There are several buses bound to Sta. Ana, Cagayan.

Dalin Bus

Florida Bus

Victory Liner:

From Sta. Ana Cagayan

The last town leading to Palaui Island where you can buy food, water and snacks. Take tricycle going to San Vicente Port for P 50. Boats are waiting at the port to Palaui for P1,200 – 2,000 depending on how you haggle.